When assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. But, nestled high among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.
The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This honour has left the proprietors utterly astonished.
“I’m totally shocked,” says the family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small shop achieving such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.
The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.
However, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.
The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.
The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.
Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.
The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.
“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.
In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.
Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.
The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary achievement.
Elena is a freelance writer and mindfulness coach who loves exploring the power of positive thinking.